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How-To Drywall
Hometime Logo Dean Johnson
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Trans 1) Getting Started Trans
2) Building Codes
3) Removing Toilets & Sinks
4) Demolishing Tubs and Walls
5) Framing Walls & Windows
6) Framing Showers & Tubs
7) Mechanical Systems
8) Drywall and Backer Board
9) Cabinets
10) Countertops
11) Ceramic Tile
12) Vinyl Flooring
13) Picking Faucets & Sinks
14) Choosing Showers, Tubs & Toilets
15) Finishing Touches

Setting Vanity Countertop For Tiling

counter top for tileCut and fit 3/4" plywood to cover the vanity top. From the center reference line used to set the cabinets, find the center point of the cabinet front.

Center the countertop and secure it to the tops of the cabinets using drywall screws up through the bottom.

For an added touch, build up the edges of the countertop. This also prevents the doors/drawers from hitting the trim pieces.

For trim, we added 3/4" plywood strips cut to fit along the edges that were held with a bead of construction adhesive and screws.

sink markerMark the centerpoints for the sink opening(s) and draw a center line connecting the points.

Vanities usually include a template to outline the sink opening. Use the reference line to position the template and trace around it.

Drill a pilot hole to start the jig saw blade and cut out the opening. Now the countertop is ready for tiling.

Building Laminate Countertops

WARNING: Most laminate countertops are glued with very flammable cement. Work in a well-ventilated area, avoid open flames (like furnace pilots) and always follow the manufacturer's directions.


adhesive on laminateParticleboard is an inexpensive material for making laminate countertops. Cut a 4 x 8 sheet of particleboard to size and add bottom supports where joining pieces.

With construction adhesive, glue on any edge pieces and test-fit the countertop.

Use a utility knife (to score then snap), jig saw or circular saw (fine-toothed blade) to cut laminate pieces.

Which side you cut laminate depends on the tool. Cut a scrap piece first on both the front and back to see which way cuts smoothest and chips less.

Apply contact cement to both laminate and particleboard edge pieces. Once the cement dries to the touch, carefully line up the pieces and attach the laminate.

Use a rolling pin or roller to make good contact and to squeeze out any air bubbles.laminate edge

NOTE: Once the laminate and cement come into contact they usually stay that way and are difficult to reposition. Use cardboard or kraft paper inserts between the pieces to position and line them up.

Let the edges set up as directed. Then cut off the excess with a router using a carbide laminate-trimming bit.

Glue the top piece the same way. Apply contact cement to both the laminate and particleboard. Let them dry to the touch and use cardboard strips to position the laminate.

Pull out the strips, press laminate into place with a rolling pin or roller and router the edges flush.

To fasten the countertop, insert spacer blocks underneath the top cabinet bracing at the corners and screw through the blocks and into the countertop.


Installing A Laminate Backsplash

laminate backsplashA laminated backsplash can also be attached to the countertop with drywall screws drilled from the bottom side of the countertop.

Since the wall may not be totally even, leave off the top laminate piece of the backsplash. Butt it tight to the wall, glue it down and trim the front edge flush.

Or, belt sand the backside of the backsplash to fit the wall. Dryfit the countertop and once it's positioned correctly on the cabinets drive screws up through the cabinet framing into the countertop.

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