Sheet Vinyl

Laying vinyl is an excellent do-it-yourself project because there are only a few basic steps involved. Getting good results isn't too difficult, excluding a slip of the knife or a hasty oversight.

If you haven't laid vinyl before, make a template to pattern the floor and to guide cuts on the new vinyl. We use kraft paper (a.k.a. rosin paper) which is a thick material similar to construction paper.

There are two types of sheet vinyl: perimeter bond and fully-bonded. As the names suggest, perimeter bond is glued around the outside edge of the sheet, whereas fully-bonded adhesive is applied to the entire floor.

Prepping Underlayment

First, prepare the underlayment layer of the floor. In new construction or if the existing floor is in bad shape, 1/4" (or thicker) underlayment-grade plywood is a good choice.

There's usually no sense in tearing up old vinyl if it's in reasonable shape because it provides a decent underlayment base for new vinyl.

Give the floor a good cleaning to strip off old floor wax and dirt. Then go over the floor again with a dry rag to remove any water and cleaner residue.

Vinyl mirrors any irregularities that the underlayment may have. Fill in any joints and holes/low spots with floor patching compound and then sand smooth -- again, wiping up the dust.

Making a Template

Remove baseboards, floor moldings, and the toilet (and any pedestal sink) if you're working in a bathroom. Cut and fit a kraft paper template on the floor and piece in around pipes and floor registers.

Jot down on the template where the vinyl pattern will square up. Older homes may have unsquare walls, so square the vinyl pattern to one wall -- often the one having the room's main entry will look best.

Make sure the template is taped together well and carefully roll it up.

Storing Vinyl

Vinyl can shrink or expand with temperature. Try to store the vinyl a day or two ahead of time in the room where it goes and keep the temperature consistent for a few days after installation.

If the room receives direct sunlight, allow the vinyl to receive the sunlight and heat the floor normally gets.

Estimating & Cutting Material

Measure out the floor or use the template as reference for floor dimensions. Add 3" to 8" of extra material when buying to allow for seams and a bit of excess.

Typically, sheet vinyl comes in 6' and 12' widths. If the floor requires two or more pieces, then the estimate must include enough overlap material so the pattern will match.

If you're not sure how much extra material to figure in, ask the vinyl supplier to help. Also check with them for recommended adhesive for your vinyl.

In a garage or other large area, lay out the vinyl -- overlapping, matching and taping down any seams. Position the template so the pattern will run square with the wall.

Tape the template securely in place. Use a sharp flooring or utility knife to cut out around the template and through the vinyl.

Dull utility blades are unsafe and can tear the vinyl. So keep several blades on hand and change them often.

Fitting & Gluing

CAUTION: Many adhesives are flammable, cause skin irritation, and may be harmful to breathe. Provide adequate ventilation, follow manufacturer's instructions, and wear rubber gloves.

A few specialized tools are needed to install vinyl: a notched trowel to spread adhesive evenly, a hand roller to embed the vinyl along edges and at seams, and a 100 lb. roller (rental item) to set the majority of the flooring into the glue.

Roll out the vinyl and press any wrinkles out toward the edges. Trim off any excess so the vinyl fits properly around the room, particularly at wall edges, pipes and doorways.

With a piece of vinyl, check for adequate clearance at the bottom of doors and door casing so the new flooring will fit.

Roll back half the vinyl and apply the adhesive with the notched trowel. Use a narrow, side-to-side figure-8 motion to spread the glue evenly across sections of the floor.

NOTE: Perimeter bond vinyl uses a different epoxy that's typically spread in a 4" band at edges and seams.

Make sure to knock down any excess glue which may create an air pocket or bulge. Roll the vinyl into place and seat it into the glue by rubbing a towel over the area.

Roll back the unglued half on top of the glued piece and repeat the process. Once the whole sheet has been glued, use the rollers to work out any air pockets and/or extra glue toward the edges.

For small rooms and confined spaces, an old rolling pin will suffice. It may get a little mucked up with glue, so ask mom first.

Have a couple clean, slightly damp rags on hand and immediately wipe up any excess adhesive that squirts out the edges so it doesn't get into the roller and make a big mess.

Cutting a Seam

The optimum location for cutting an inconspicuous seam is along the edge of a design element. Ideally, a groutline in the pattern is the best place to cut. If not, cut along the most continuous line in the design.

Overlap the two pieces of vinyl so the pattern matches. Securely position a metal straight edge on the seam. Along the outside edge of the grout line, cut through both layers of flooring down the length of the seam.

When cutting, be sure the knife blade runs straight up and down to the straight edge. Leaning the knife to one side may cause a slight gap in the seam.

Roll back the unglued edges of the seam, apply adhesive, reposition the pieces and roll the seam.