Framing is at least a two-person job. We set up a work area on the slab after it had cured a few days. The flat surface really helped us in fabricating the walls. So take a few days off to let the concrete set up before framing.
The framing member the walls tie into is called the sill plate. Commonly, 2x4 pressure-treated lumber serves as the sill plate. It's drilled and fastened to the anchor bolts. But you'll want to test fit it first. Also, if you're going to insulate, add a gasket under the sill.
NOTE: We marked the block and positioned the sill plate back 1/2" to flush the sheathing with the block.
Then mark the sill plate (and top plate) where the wall studs are located and mark for any doors or windows.
Next, assemble the wall studs to the sill and top plates. If you're working with just one partner, assembling each wall in two sections may be more manageable when lifting the walls onto the anchor bolts.
Once the wall is assembled and erected, the anchor bolts are tightened to hold the wall in place. However, you'll need to add some braces to get the walls plumb.
When the walls are square, toenail them together. After the walls are up, sheath the walls. We used 1/2" thick 4x8 OSB sheets. Notch out the sill plate at the door threshold.
Garage Door Framing
Like windows and doors, installing a garage door begins with framing. Appropriate header and trimmer studs are needed to support the span of the garage door opening.
A typical single garage door is 8'or 9' wide by 7' high. The rough opening should be about 1 1/2" bigger on each side than the door to accommodate the jambs.
Top, side and back jambs finish the rough opening. Install the header jamb first. In some cases this takes two 2x6s or larger lumber. To span the length of the opening, the two header jamb pieces can be mitred together, instead of butted.
Screw side jambs to the trimmers for the correct opening width. Install back jambs flush with the corner side jambs. The door brackets will mount to the back jambs, so make sure they are square.
The top plate above the garage door header may take two sections. So splice them at a cripple stud above the header or above a wall stud.
Cap the top plates with 2x4s to add strength and stability.
Our plans called for a storage area, so the trusses look sort of like a triangle with a square in the center.
Gable end roof trusses look like a triangle with evenly spaced vertical studs. We also framed a window opening for the attic storage space on one gable truss.
Keep in mind that ordering trusses from the factory may take 3-8 weeks which may delay the project.
Mark the layout of the trusses on the cap plate. Position some scaffolding on the inside of each side wall. Install one end truss and rig some bracing to it for the other trusses to lean against. Then push the trusses up one at a time and stack them against the braced end truss.
TIP: To get the trusses up, start by turning a truss upside down with the rafters resting on the walls' top caps with the peak pointed down. From the ground, have a person push the peak of the truss up to a person on each scaffold, and together, swing the truss upright. Stack the trusses against the braced end truss. Remember, take up the near side end truss first, and the other end truss last.
Walk the opposing end truss down and position the notched bottom chord of the truss on the cap plate and toenail it in place. Again, add some additional bracing and plumb it in place.
Walk the next truss down and toenail it in position using spacer boards to plumb and brace it with the end truss. Install the remaining trusses, plumbing and bracing them as you go.
Once all the trusses are up, nail full-length 1x4 bracing strips on the inside to stiffen the trusses.
Next, trim the rafter tails to stick out the width of the soffit.
Sheath the gable ends.
You may want to install the end gable window or vent at this time, too.