Fascia and Soffits
Installing garage soffits and fascia may vary a little. We included boxed cornices that required some extra steps. You may also have some additional soffits and fascia features not mentioned here. Also, if your garage roof has an overhang (rake), framing it before installing the side fascia and soffits is needed.
Other differences like using pre-made fascia joints for the soffits require putting up the fascia before the soffit board. You may decide to install "angled" soffits instead of a "flat" ones. Angled soffits may be nailed directly to the tails without using extra bracing (lookouts).
Begin by trimming the rafter tails. By marking the end tails, then chalklining the other tails, faster, straighter cuts are possible.
To get the end tails marked, we measured out from the wall the width of the soffit, and using a level (horizontal), marked the bottom of the rafter tail. Then we made a vertical mark using the level.
Using a square, this vertical mark can be transposed to the top of the rafter tail. When both end tails are marked, chalkline the other tails between the ends.
Installing Side Soffits and Fascia
To install a "flat" side soffit, nail a 3/4" nailer board to the sheathed wall running it parallel and flush with the bottom of the rafter tails.
Next, nail a 2x4 (or 2x6) sub-fascia to the ends of the rafter tails.
Install 2x4 horizontal bracing pieces (lookouts) centered between the rafter tails and toenailed level to the nailer board and the sub-fascia. These pieces serve as nailers for the middle of the soffit.
Nail the fascia to the sub-fascia. If the fascia is notched, make sure it's level so the soffit will fit and nail correctly.
Fit the soffit smooth side down and nail it to the nailer board, lookouts, sub-fascia. Our soffit was made of 3/8" Grade A plywood.
Finish off the soffit by nailing a trim (frieze) board under it on the wall side and adding a molding piece (optional).
Installing Gable Rakes, Soffits & Fascia
An overhang (rake) at the gable end gives a balanced look to the roof line and protects the wall from weather.
The assembled rake frame could be installed all at once with the right scaffolding and manpower, but we'll describe each step. Also, if you sheath the roof before making the rake, extend the sheathing.
Scab on 2x4 (2x6) nailer boards that run parallel with the end rafters, nailing through the wall sheathing and end rafters. Miter cut the ends so they peak just like the regular rafters. Cut the ends flush with the wall (they don't extend like the other rafters).
Nail 2x4 lookouts every 16" (joist hangers optional). The length of the lookouts depends on the overhang width, which may vary from 6" to 24". Our rake extended 10-1/2". No special cuts are needed for the peak lookouts. They'll butt together and roof sheathing will cover the gap.
Next, cut another set of rafters and nail them on the lookout ends. These overhanging rafters are called fly rafters and their tails are cut the same as the other rafters.
Install the fascia board over the fly rafter. Angle cut the fascia end like the rafter tails. Again, make sure the fascia extends down to notch and/or hide the soffit end.
Fit the soffit board in the fascia notch or between the fascia and wall. Nail the soffit to the fly rafter and the nailer.
NOTE: The rake soffits may need to be bevel cut on the peak ends.
A trim (frieze) board with molding piece (optional) butted up against the soffit on the wall side finishes off the rake detail.