Windows & Doors
The openings for all the windows and doors were reinforced with rebar during the assembly of the shell. These helped to hold the logs aligned after the openings for the windows and doors are cut.
We marked off the openings for the windows and doors and cut them with a chain saw. It takes two people to do this; one to cut and one to hold the logs.
We added a few inches to the recommended rough opening sizes to leave room for any further log settling and for the bucks, which went in next.
We put shims in between the log ends to keep them from sagging.
Bucks are the boards that create the flat edges inside the window and door openings. We needed these to create a square opening, and to give us something to secure the windows and doors to.
For this window opening we used 2x8's for the bucks. The bottom buck went in first over a layer of insulation, and then we secured it with 6-inch nails.
To leave room for settling, we cut the side bucks 3 1/2 inches short. We also made slots for the nails so if the logs settle, they can move down without disturbing the bucks. We put washers on the nails to make sure they can move freely.
The top buck went right over the side bucks. This leaves two inches above the top buck for settling.
Once the bucks were in, we installed the windows. We've got three different types of windows in our cabin: double hung, awning, and casement. The style we chose is a rustic divided light style which was common in older construction. We specified a green factory finish and a flat, 4-inch casing to also enhance this rustic feeling.
We did have to notch in the log ends so the casing would be flush with the bucks. And on the top we left enough of a notch so the wall won't crush the window as it settles.
We set the window in place, shimmed it level, and nailed it in. We used masonry clips to secure the windows to the bucks so we didn't have to nail through the finished trim.
For the doors, we installed the side and top bucks the same as for the windows. The doors we used were the same double-glazed, divided light style as the windows.
We set a 7/8-inch shim along the subfloor to raise the door above the deck, and then we secured metal flashing over that to keep the moisture out and direct it down under the deck. Then we caulked the subfloor to seal the sill.
Like the windows, we notched out the logs for the door trim. Then we set the door frame in, centering it in the opening.
Then we plumbed and leveled the door. We began by plumbing one side of the jambs, starting at the top, nailing it and working our way down. We nailed through the casing into the bucks to hold the jamb plumb. We didn't using masonry clips here since the trim wasn't painted yet.
Then we plumbed and nailed in the other side jamb and then set the door back in. The door was binding a little, but it straightened up when we screwed through the hinges into the buck. We also screwed in the top jamb and screwed down the sill.