Rehanging Screen Doors
A frequently used screen or porch door can easily develop an opening/closing problem often due to a loose hinge, too much paint, or the jambs may have sagged out of square.
If the jamb's off, you can plane down the door where it's hitting, but first, you may want to try putting on new hinges.
Check the gaps between the door and jambs. A wide spot could indicate the hinge screws are coming loose and stripped screws need new holes. Remove the door and hinges.
Fill the reamed holes with glue and wood dowels (golf tees work well). Tap the dowel in and cut off the excess flush with the jamb. Let the glue set a few hours and re-fasten the hinges.
Hang the door back on its hinges and test the door again. If it still sticks, block plane the tight spot.
Freeing Stuck Patio Doors
Vacuum out the top and bottom patio door tracks. Then clean the tracks with detergent and a reasonably stiff bristle brush.
If the door is dragging at the bottom, manipulate the adjustment screw found near the bottom roller so the door frame raises off the track.
Grease both top and bottom tracks with white lithium grease. This grease is an excellent lubricant at low temperatures.
Replacing Broken Window Panes
Remove the old glazing from the window. A heat gun works well for this, but avoid pointing it directly at the glass and be careful not to scorch the wood.
Take out the small glazier points that hold the pane. Then remove the broken pane from the frame.
Roll a small bead of glazing compound and lay it out where the pane sets on the frame. Center the new pane in the opening and set it snugly into the compound.
Carefully install new glazier points, starting them by hand and pushing them home with the tip of a putty knife.
Roll out a bead of glazing compound slightly larger than the size of the old glazing. Set the bead around the pane's perimeter and pack it into the frame with a putty knife.
Give the compound a beveled edge by angling the putty knife between the frame edge and glass (forming a triangle). Run the knife around the perimeter, pressing the compound smooth and trimming the excess. Avoid messing up the fresh bevel by picking up the excess with a small ball of sticky compound.
For wood screens, remove the middle piece of screen molding and rip off the old screen. Pry off the old staples/tacks.
Set the new screen squarely on the frame. Staple the top in place and position the bottom by wrapping a 2x4 or broom handle around the excess screen and pulling it taut.
Staple the bottom, sides, then cross piece in place. Reattach the molding onto the frame with brads and trim the excess with a razor blade.
For aluminum screens, pry out the vinyl spline material and remove the screen. Fit the new screen squarely on the frame and pull out any wrinkles.
Re-install/replace the spline by pressing it into its channels by hand or with a spline roller. This will usually make the screen taut, but you may want to pull the screen a bit while installing the last spline. After the spline is secure and the screen is taut, trim the excess screen.